Walking in Memphis

We touched down in the land of the Delta Blues in the middle of the pouring rain (literally) and had a fun few days in Memphis. This was a little bit of an odd ball choice for spring break, but we had a great time. 

What to Do...

On our first night we caught a Dallas Mavericks v. Memphis Grizzlies game at the FedEx Forum, which was a really nice, new stadium and is just a short walk from Beale. It’s well-lit in the evening, and there were lots of police on patrol and big crowds, so it felt very safe.

BB King's Blues Club on Beale Street

We also enjoyed some family friendly spots on Beale, including BB King’s Blues Club for live blues and lunch (the chicken and waffles were solid), the Hard Rock Café for lunch and to check out their memorabilia, and Dyer’s Burgers for a late day snack. The street performances during the day on Beale were also a great diversion. A guy flipped over my daughter’s head, and she is still talking about it. There are also some fun little stores on Beale. A. Schwab Trading Company, originally established in 1876, has an old-fashioned soda fountain with terrific milk shakes and other treats, and it offers fun souvenirs, unique gift shop finds, and a large selection of candy. My sugar-holic also loved Beale Sweets Sugar Shack, a cute vintage candy store with delicious fudge.

National Civil Rights Museum

We spent a morning at the National Civil Rights Museum, which was incredible (but very crowded). You will want to get tickets in advance. The museum is built around the Lorraine Motel where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated. It's really powerful, and they have done a fantastic job making the museum extremely accessible for all ages. My daughter thought it was too sad, which of course it is, but this is an absolute must do if you are in Memphis. 

Seeing the ducks ride down in the elevator and march through the lobby at the Peabody Hotel is another must do. It gets really crowded, but kids can scoot to the front and sit on the floor to get a good view. We got there about 30 minutes early, and my daughter had a front row seat and just read her book until the ducks were ready for their grand entrance. We rented a VRBO with views of the river, but if we went back, I would stay at the Peabody. The lobby was beautiful, and it's in a great location. 

We also spent several hours at the Bass Pro Shop checking out the aquariums, having lunch at the Lookout, admiring the views of the Mississippi, and bowling in the Fishbowl (this bowling alley is incredible and feels like you are bowling at the bottom of the ocean). They have a hotel on site, but that's not really my speed. 

Down in the Jungle Room

Visiting Graceland was not what I envisioned. Think something closer to Disney than an historic home tour. We skipped a lot of the exhibits and toured the house and planes and saw his cars. I still can’t quite figure out why, because we aren’t really an Elvis family, but my daughter really loved Graceland. I had fun too, and the
iPad tour of the house and grounds was interesting. I was on the fence about going since we aren't super fans, but it was a fun experience. You could easily make this a full day stop if you are so inclined, but we saw what we wanted to see and were in and out in about two hours. 

We didn’t make it to the Memphis Zoo, which everyone says is one of the best in the country, and we didn’t do the Sun Studio tour, which in hindsight may have been more interesting for my daughter than the Stax Museum of American Soul, which was a solid B in our minds.

What to Eat...

Since my daughter is on a 50-state mission, we drove 15 minutes south into Southaven, Mississippi for burgers at Huey’s. This may be the best burger I have ever had, and they have bottled IBC root beer (the best). My daughter recommends the tater tots. This location has live music on Sunday nights. There are several Huey's locations in Memphis as well. 

Gus’s Fried Chicken is an absolute must do and is near the National Civil Rights Museum. Bring dollar bills for the juke box and order all the fried chicken you can possibly eat. It’s incredible! If you are in the market for barbeque, I think I started a heated debate among some people in the neighborhood as to whether Central BBQ or Payne’s BBQ is best, so a taste test may be in order on a future trip.

What to Read... 

I’m suggesting a great legal thriller and two really excellent historical fiction novels.

The Firm by John Grisham was Grisham’s second novel and is a gripping legal suspense set in Memphis. If you missed the early 1990s Grisham wagon-train, this is a must read. The Tom Cruise adaptation of the book is also a fun watch. 

I also have two solid historical fiction picks, Before We Were Yours by Lisa Wingate and Memphis by Tara Stringfellow. Full disclosure, these are both fairly heavy. They are also both, coincidentally, at their core about the power of families and of sisters more specifically. 

I read Before We Were Yours in 2018 long before my Memphis visit, but it’s one of those stories that sticks with you. It employs the alternating older/younger narrator structure to link the present day with the past, and both narratives are compelling. The story centers on the true story of Georgia Tann, who operated a Memphis-based adoption organization from 1924 to 1950 and is estimated to have stolen approximately 5,000 poor children, trafficking them to wealthy families. The novel is a story of perseverance, love, and triumph, so it's not all bad. 

I read Memphis during this trip, and it’s the captivating story of three generations of Southern Black women. The book explores the racism of the South, including a lynching of a family member, segregation, the assassination of Dr. King, and the Civil Rights movement. It’s also about the power of family, the power of community, and the power of art. I really enjoyed this.