Drop It Like It's Hot in Hot Springs, Arkansas

In December 2021 my daughter announced to her younger, adoring cousin, her aunt, and I that her New Year’s Resolution was to visit all 50 states. Her cousin (who would follow her off a cliff and apparently also to Arkansas) agreed, and since her aunt and I were already pretty far along on checking off all the states, we also agreed it was a good project (though maybe one that would take more than a year). That’s how the four of us found ourselves hitting the road for Hot Springs, Arkansas last summer.

Hot Springs was first preserved as a recreational site by Congress on April 20, 1832, before the national parks system was established, so this National Park is not our oldest National Park, but it was designated for federal protection for recreational use before any of our other National Parks. As my husband would say, that’s your fun fact for the day. This is a part of the country filled with mountains, dense woods, and large lakes, and there are lovely historic buildings dating back to when the town was a wildly successful spa destination visited by politicians, mob bosses, and other well to do visitors. We really enjoyed our trip and thought the area was beautiful.   

Where to Stay…

We rented a VRBO on Lake Hamilton, and I loved relaxing with a glass of wine and a book at night as I looked out over the water and waking up to coffee and my book in the morning on the porch. Things are a little bit spread out in Hot Springs, so you will need a car, and most of our activities were about a 20-minute drive.   

What to Do…

Plan for lots of time outdoors (weather permitting) with lots of opportunities for hiking, strolling the town streets, horseback riding, or getting out on the water.

Garvan Woodland Gardens is an absolute must visit attraction. These botanical gardens are maintained by the University of Arkansas, and you could easily spend an entire day exploring. We got bingo cards for the girls at the ticket counter when we got our tickets, so they had things to hunt for while we were walking around. We also purchased fish food for the girls to feed the fish in the koi pond (pictured), and there’s a terrific children’s garden with a large 3-level tree house for the kids to explore. There are several places to grab a snack in the gardens, and as I said, the gardens are quite large, so smaller children may need a stroller or some planned breaks. Our girls (ages 5 and 9 at the time of our visit) were pretty pooped when we were done with our visit.  

·       We loved riding horses in Lake DeGray State Park. This was honestly one of the most beautiful horseback rides we have done in any state. The trail has lots of trees for shade, is right near the water, and is very quiet and peaceful. We booked the ride in advance of the trip through Lake DeGray Horseback Riding. There was a boat rental place in the state park right next door where we walked up and rented paddle boats to go out on the lake for a ride and a swim. Motorized boats were also available at the same location as well (and are not available for rental on all the local lakes).

We also visited Hot Springs National Park while we were there (though I think it would be hard to miss since it’s part of the town itself). Definitely check out Bathhouse Row to see the old bathhouses and check out the cute little shops along the way. I really thought our girls would think this was boring, but they enjoyed exploring the National Park buildings and loved all the cute shops just across the street. I suggest grabbing a Junior Rangers activity book for the kids to keep them engaged while you look around, and don’t forget to collect your National Park stamps. We also enjoyed visiting the Hot Springs Mountain Tower with pretty views of the entire park. The park has lots of hiking trails, but we weren’t really able to take advantage of those on this trip, as it was crazy hot in July.

·       To beat the heat, we spent an afternoon at Hot Springs Family Fun Park where we did bumper cars, raced go karts, and enjoyed the indoor zip line and ropes course. This was a huge hit with the girls. I wouldn’t say this is a must do, but if it’s raining or hot, it’s a great activity to have in your back pocket.  

Other ideas include a visit to Oaklawn Racing (the local horse track) or going digging for diamonds about 45 minutes outside of town. We didn’t get to do either, as it was out of season for the track and too hot for the diamond digging, but both came recommended by other friends. For those of you who collect National Park cancellation stamps, we did stop in Hope, Arkansas at the President William Jefferson Clinton Birthplace Home National Historic Site to collect our stamps on the way home. This was a quick 15-minute stop and broke up the trip. On the way there, we stopped for a similarly short stop at the Texas-Arkansas border to take a photo of the sign in front of the Texarkana Courthouse.  

Where to Eat…

Most of our meals were nothing to write home about, but we did really enjoy SQZBX Brewery & Pizza for dinner one night. This is a spot that’s close to the National Park, so it’s a good place to end your day. We also had dinner one evening at Jose's, a Mexican restaurant with live music. As a Texan, the food offended by sophisticated Tex Mex palate, but the live music and lively ambience was fun for the girls. 

What to Read…

I have four very different recommendations for what to read on a trip to Hot Springs (or really anywhere in Arkansas), a story about secrets in a small farming community, a Western with a female heroine, a heartbreaking memoir by our former poet laureate, and a gripping thriller with no connection to Arkansas (but stay with me on that one).  

·       A Painted House by John Grisham is the story of Arkansas cotton farmers in the 1950s as told through the eyes of a 7-year-old boy who dreams of playing professional baseball and loves his family. In this novel Grisham explores the caste system among whites in the South, the plight of the American famer, and the role religion plays in small towns. The book is also full of life and death secrets – secrets of murder and violence and adultery and lust. This novel is the perfect accompaniment for a trip to anywhere in Arkansas, and unlike Grisham’s other books, there’s not a lawyer or a courthouse to be found in this story.    

·       I’m also recommending True Grit by Charles Portis. This is another child narrated book but is totally different than the suggestion above. Fourteen-year-old heroine, Mattie Ross, seeks vengeance after her father is gunned down. Mattie’s adventure takes her through Arkansas, Texas, and Oklahoma, which makes this the perfect book for this part of the US. Readers who have seen my blog post on Broken Bow, Oklahoma will know I recommended this for that destination as well.  

·       Maya Angelou’s I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings captures the author’s journey from the most humble of beginnings in Arkansas and ends when she is only 17 years old. This is beautifully written, lyrical and poetic and emotionally charged. I loved the language, and this is a perfect marriage of beautiful prose and a compelling story. Beware, however, as this is not a pretty story, and it’s painful to read at times, but it’s Angelou’s personal story of what it means to be a woman of color in America. Perhaps not a good vacation book, but I encourage everyone to read this book.    

·       Tell No One by Harlan Coben is a gripping thriller about the disappearance of Dr. David Beck’s wife on a lake, and now eight years later he receives a message with a phrase that only he and his dead wife would know. Admittedly, this has absolutely nothing to do with Arkansas, but if you are staying on the lake and visiting the lakes, the trip will lend some added creepy atmosphere to go along with this page turner.